design and creative direction
photography, editing and light
model
Rusted and burnt shirt with jeans creating an outfit inspired by Japanese firefighters from the Edo period.
Leonardo:
The concept of the collection, titled “Hikeshi in Rust”, from which this outfit is derived, draws inspiration from Japanese culture. More specifically, I was inspired by the figure of firefighters during the Edo period in Japan. I explored their attire and garments, the way they have been depicted over time in various illustrations, and above all, the stories that have emerged around them.
The concept of the collection, titled “Hikeshi in Rust”, from which this outfit is derived, draws inspiration from Japanese culture. More specifically, I was inspired by the figure of firefighters during the Edo period in Japan. I explored their attire and garments, the way they have been depicted over time in various illustrations, and above all, the stories that have emerged around them.
One particular account states that firefighters of that era did not extinguish fires in the conventional sense; rather, they contained them by removing whatever could fuel their spread, or by using alternative methods. This narrative directly inspired the main detail of the look. The surface manipulation, created through a blend of rust-like textures and burn effects, is intended to evoke the remnants that might have marked the bodies of those who fought fires in a time when protective equipment, as we know it today, did not exist. The side button openings are also intentional; they could have provided greater protection by reducing frontal openings. Furthermore, the silhouettes pay tribute to traditional Japanese forms, characterized by generous yet controlled volumes, structured, deliberate, and never excessive.
One particular account states that firefighters of that era did not extinguish fires in the conventional sense; rather, they contained them by removing whatever could fuel their spread, or by using alternative methods. This narrative directly inspired the main detail of the look. The surface manipulation, created through a blend of rust-like textures and burn effects, is intended to evoke the remnants that might have marked the bodies of those who fought fires in a time when protective equipment, as we know it today, did not exist. The side button openings are also intentional; they could have provided greater protection by reducing frontal openings. Furthermore, the silhouettes pay tribute to traditional Japanese forms, characterized by generous yet controlled volumes, structured, deliberate, and never excessive.
The choice of fabrics reinforces the concept: entirely plant-based materials, and notably heavy. For the shirt, I selected a gabardine that becomes slightly lighter through processing, echoing the transformative effects of fire. For the jeans, I chose a 100% cotton denim as a tribute to one of the most iconic elements of Japanese style.
The choice of fabrics reinforces the concept: entirely plant-based materials, and notably heavy. For the shirt, I selected a gabardine that becomes slightly lighter through processing, echoing the transformative effects of fire. For the jeans, I chose a 100% cotton denim as a tribute to one of the most iconic elements of Japanese style.
The final outcome is a molded leather waist corset created through an experimental shaping process. Leather was soaked and formed directly over belts wrapped around a mannequin. As the material dried, it retained the pressure marks and imprints left by the belts, preserving physical traces of compression and restraint within its surface. What began as a temporary force became permanently embedded in the material itself. The piece is designed to be worn over clothing rather than directly on the body, the corset occupies a space between fashion accessory and body sculpture. Its structure is intentionally asymmetrical and avoids conventional side seams, allowing the piece to wrap around the body as a single sculptural form. The open back was completed through a manually perforated lacing system, with each hole individually punched by hand after the molding process had been completed.
The final outcome is a molded leather waist corset created through an experimental shaping process. Leather was soaked and formed directly over belts wrapped around a mannequin. As the material dried, it retained the pressure marks and imprints left by the belts, preserving physical traces of compression and restraint within its surface. What began as a temporary force became permanently embedded in the material itself. The piece is designed to be worn over clothing rather than directly on the body, the corset occupies a space between fashion accessory and body sculpture. Its structure is intentionally asymmetrical and avoids conventional side seams, allowing the piece to wrap around the body as a single sculptural form. The open back was completed through a manually perforated lacing system, with each hole individually punched by hand after the molding process had been completed.
Through its rigid form, visible pressure marks, and exposed construction, CALIBRE transforms an invisible mechanism of control into a tangible object. The piece explores the tension between restriction and freedom, questioning how systems of control shape the body, how they leave lasting traces behind, and what remains when their authority begins to weaken.
Through its rigid form, visible pressure marks, and exposed construction, CALIBRE transforms an invisible mechanism of control into a tangible object. The piece explores the tension between restriction and freedom, questioning how systems of control shape the body, how they leave lasting traces behind, and what remains when their authority begins to weaken.